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Lucif3r last won the day on September 20

Lucif3r had the most liked content!

About Lucif3r

  • User Group: Super Admin

  • Title: Sarcasmaclysmic

  • Post Count: 2,937

  • Post Ratio: 1.98

  • Total Rep: 2,451

  • Member Of The Days Won: 92

  • Joined: 08/30/2014

  • Been With Us For: 1483 Days

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  • Location
    Far away, in a dark cave ,,^..^,,
  • Consoles I Own
    PS Vita
    Nintendo DS
    Wii U

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  1. Lucif3r

    PlayStation Classic Revealed

    Copying Nintendo much? Well, no surprise there tbh, isnt exactly the first time and certainly wont be the last.
  2. Lucif3r

    Public Service Announcement!

    Didnt we all already know playstation's were full of bugs?
  3. Lucif3r

    Happy Birthday GregoryRasputin!

    Happy birthday you old cunt
  4. Lucif3r

    Unity For PS4 And PS Vita Leaked

    Nice... Might try make something silly for the vita at some point... If I can find it... Dont have a ps4 so cant test anything for that though.
  5. Lucif3r

    PSVR Review By GregoryRasputin

    I said this before the PSVR was even released - the resolution of the device IS NOT EVEN CLOSE to high enough (after all, youre practically looking at a 1080p/2 monitor through binoculars). Not even the Rift or Vive have high enough resolution, and theyre both 1440p. Text is KNOWN to be borderline unreadable on any and all current headsets, and you basically have to make the text enormous in order for the player to be able to read it properly, as well as apply a lot of tricks and workarounds - something Skyrim "VR" devs clearly havent done. The blurriness is the same, especially for distant objects. This is even true for conventional monitors - you just dont notice it as much as when looking through a pair of magnifying glasses. And a game like skyrim where distance is 90% of the experience.... Yeah, not exactly a good recipe for success. The reason your eye(s) became extremely strained is because of the low resolution. Your eyes were desperately trying to focus on that blurry mess, to no avail. Then we have the other (obvious) issue that I also said before the PSVR was released - the PS4 is NOT POWERFUL ENOUGH to handle games in VR in ANY sort of decent quality. All I can say is... "I told you so"
  6. Makes sense. I like his approach of using a tiny PCB and using a plastic frame to fill out the gaps instead of... you know... USING FKING TINNED CONDUCTIVE HOLES IN THE PCB as a certain someone claimed....
  7. Is the 3rd from the left the same adapter without the case, or some other version?
  8. Lucif3r

    PSVKit Professional #SD2Vita Adaptor - #HENkaku #Enso

    Visually it looks great, and if it doesnt have some odd form, like being a few mm too tall to not be able to close the lid, it will most likely be great option for people whos not comfortable with bare PCBs - despite the extremely low risk of anything happening to it. The price feels right for what it is as well, $6 for the pcb in a plastic case isnt bad..... How much were scaminformer charging for their adapter in a plastic case again? oh ye, too much... Im fairly confident in saying that the adapter will work just fine because.... Its a fking adapter!
  9. Best. Excuse. Ever. . . . . . . ... Those are not rivets, those are clearly drilled, tinned and etched solder/testpoints. No one in their right mind would ever think of using.. alright, lets call them rivets... rivets as "spacers", and even less so TINNED, CONDUCTIVE, rivets. If you'd really needed "spacers", you know what you should've done? MADE. THE. BOARD. BIGGER. While I cant comment whether the slots are different sizes between 1k, 2k and PSTV-versions, I can say this: Original carts fits just fine in any of the systems. The locking is not preventing the cards sliding sideways or wiggling back and forth, the lock is only preventing the card from falling out, so that is completely irrelevant. If you'd ever taken the time to actually feel on a gamecart in the slot, you'd noticed it moves around quite a lot with no force whatsoever... And, they work without a single issue. In fact, it HAS to move freely a bit in order to slide out and in without damaging itself(or the reader). The pins are not static in the slot, they are flexible/springloaded to accommodate the movements of the card without losing connection. This is also in place to compensate for the temperature differences that may or may not happen, since metal and PCB's expands and contracts based on the temperature(which we all know all too well with the PS3...). Not much, but enough to cause problem had the pins been static(cracked solderballs anyone?). Ok, the ps3 example isnt strictly relevant, since there wont be nearly as much temperature differences in a card reader as on a processing unit, but the principle is the same. Jesus fuck, this is kindergarten stuff.... But lets do a real-world example: I dont have anything to measure with other than this random SD card+reader I have next to me, but in that the card would be able to move +-0.3mm sideways and almost a whole mm upwards without losing connecting. I dont remember if the vita gamecarts have the same size on the pins as a normal SD-card, but this card is using roughly 1mm wide and 2mm high pins, and the reader's pins(the part that actually touches the sd card) measures roughly 0.2mm wide and 0.3mm high. So yeah, theres a lot of room for the card to flop around in before the connection is interrupted. TL;DR: You WANT the card to be able to move around a little bit. And come to think of it, if you make it too tight so you'd have to force it in, theres a possibility the pins will bend too much and wont regain the original shape when the adapter is taken out, which might cause original carts to stop working, cause the pins wont "reach" the gamecarts anymore(been there, done that with random SD adapters , always fun having to carefully pry the pins back in place, even more so when they snap!).
  10. Having a reasonable amount of ads and/or aff. links are fine* imo. Running a website isnt free, and requires quite a bit of work and maintenance. The bigger the site, the more maintenance will be needed, e.g. more time lost that couldve been spent elsewhere. For example resting to be fit for fight at ones real work tomorrow to earn a living. * theres a very fine line between whats reasonable and whats annoying for the users. Having a couple of discreet non-intrusive ads, on a layout designed to accommodate said ads, isnt something many people will bat an eye at. However, plastering ads at every inch of empty space on the site, or having an ad in the middle of a forum thread, is beyond annoying. Affiliation links in product posts or similar is also not something many users complain about, as long as the link is transparent and not obscured, because then the user can chose for himself whether to use that link or not. However, one cannot deny that plastering ads and aff. links all over a page does give more money than a more user-friendly option...
  11. hmm.... Overall it looks like a really crapily made board. I would take one of those dirt-cheap ebay adapters over that abomination any day. Those things on the edges are no doubt breaking points but, generally you dont tin those, or even use metal at them. Generally its just drilled holes. So my next guess is that they doubled as testpoint, which would explain WHY THE FUCK the traces are crossing over them. You should always leave a good 2-3mm empty space from the edge of the board to the closest component/trace/whatever. That has clearly not been done here. Its also clear that the SD-socket has been handsoldered, probably by a demented monkey by the looks of it(same monkey that snapped the edged). Just look at all those pores on the joints on the sides. You could fit half a van in those holes! Sure, you could argue that they serve no purpose other than anchors, but still... If you cant even get those right, god knows how the actual pin-points looks like. Its a bit hard to see on the images due to their small size but, I think I can see hints of melted plastic as well, especially on pin 8... And then theres the entire look of the thing.... That thing is barely passable as a prototype, and definitely not something that should be sold to consumers. I dont know how much those specific boards were sold for, but anything above shipping cost is too much(pro-tip: most of those "chinese dangerous sub-$3 adapters" have free shipping). Im fairly sure I could pull off a better looking board, or at least equally shit, using just a double-sided breadboard, as in, not a custom board with all traces pre-made etc. Hm, I might actually even try it if I get bored enough Hardest part will be getting it thin enough to fit. Well if I do I'll make sure to document it
  12. Ok, Im going to be constructive here.. Or at least try to... As far as Ive seen, none of those have even claimed to be in a plastic case at all? I might've missed some odd one though. Its true though that having a plastic case is generally better when dealing with PCB's youre going to fiddle with, because it does offer some protection from outside moisture and the like. I dont think I need to comment on this... But I'll do anyway - ITS A FKING ADAPTER! It can sit on top of the Eiffel tower and it still wouldnt change a thing. Ok this one had me laughing out loud.... A) I highly doubt that, however I have no way of counter-proving this claim but... Doubt it.... B.) Wait what? Lets read that again.... "the oil from your fingers will corrode the board".... "the oil".... "oil".... *ahem*.... No, thats not going to happen. First of all, oil does not corrode metals - if anything it protects it from corrosion. However, MOISTURE causes corrosion, and yes - our bodies, including our fingers, carries a fair bit of moisture with them. But, and this is important, its NOWHERE NEAR enough to cause metal to corrode, not even the cheapest conductive metal in the world. The only scenario I can see "fingers" causing corrosion to "cheap" metals would be if you squeezed it in your hand very hard for a fairly long time with a lot of handsweat involved. But why the fk would you do that? I'll come back to this topic at the end. No shit? You dont say? Yeah cause thats totally not the entire point of them or anything.... Also, everything is created in bulk except for very early prototypes(or very very specific premium ultra-rare "handmade" things) and then shipped off to the ones ordering the manufacturing for the finishing touches(such as casing, branding etc etc), before being sold off to consumers at a fuckton higher price than it cost to make it(there are exceptions, but generally speaking). What we have here is a product directly from the assembly band without any meddling middle hands. Also I'd just like to point out again - ITS A FKING ADAPTER! Its not rocket science.... This is another claim I find very hard to believe, but again I have no solid way of proving them wrong(or time, for that matter). I have built some very questionable adapters and slot-in cards, they are crude, dirty, and utter crap no matter how much you polish them.... BUT! They work just fine, and while I dont keep count(cause why would I?) I'm pretty sure some of them have seen a lot more "ejecting" than the 100-200 claimed above. How were these boards made you ask? Solder. Yup, plain old solder aligned, heated and shaped to match the connectors(told you they were crude :P). Thats right, theyre made out of a material made for "glueing" things to a PCB, which is most likely about 100x weaker than the "tin immersion plating" mentioned above. Are there any scratches on them? There are, on some, because the shape is/wasnt the 100% correct thickness for the socket. But, they work. Would I recommend such a crude method? Definitely not. Would/will I use that method again? Most likely. Am I worried they will break? Nope, not really. Ok, lets continue with the oily-fingers-bs. I dont think anyone would disagree that handling bare PCB's with your hands aren't the best thing you can do to the PCB. However, ITS A FKING ADAPTER!(Have I said that enough yet?). In fact - it doesnt even have a single component on it! All it does is reroute the gamecard pins to a SD-standard pinlayout. Its been known for ages that the gamecards are basically just re-routed SD cards(with some additions such as HW DRM etc etc). The only reason we havent had any adapters before(actually we have but... yeah...) is because theres been no way to enabling the functionality in the firmware/software - until now. The odds of a PCB breaking - one without ANY components - simply by handling it with your hands, is astronomically small ASSUMING youre not doing it while washing your hands, or showering, or having live current applied to you - a current high enough to burn the traces of the PCB(btw, you'd be long dead before that would happen, dont try it). Now I cant fathom anyone stupid enough to use their vita in the shower, bath or similar. And even if there would be such a person, some corrosion on a <$3 PCB would be the least of their worries. You have undoubtedly noticed I've kept talking about water and moisture, thats because moisture is the biggest cause of corrosion when dealing with metals. But, there is one more thing to factor in - contamination. Humans carries a fair bit of this on a daily basis(and, ironically, is usually mixed with the "oil" mentioned), and getting rid of all contamination is almost impossible(theres a reason surgeons use pure alcohol to wash their hands and not touching anything until they got gloves on). However, contamination - or impurities, distributed from your fingers to a PCB isnt enough to start a reaction just from contact(assuming youre an average clean-hands-person). But what can and do cause a reaction is heat in combination with these impurities. One prime example here is when soldering. Having fat/oil residue on the PCB where youre going to add liquid metal WILL affect the joint in a bad way, and this can indeed lead to corrosion and other unwanted side-effects. But all of that is completely irrelevant in this case, because youre NOT soldering on this board, youre NOT adding liquid metals to this board, and therefore, the odds of damaging the board simply by handling is, again, astronomically small. If youre still worried though, just clean the board with some alcohol every now and then. TL;DR: What we have here is some basic, insignificant, facts, taken out of context, stretched to oblivion and beyond and painted out like the devil incarnated to make people think this is a serious issue. As a final note I'd just like to point out that ALL commonly used conductive metals can corrode or rust - including this "super" adapter. As a matter of fact, the purer the metal the more sensitive to contamination it is. So in a weird way, a "worse" metal can be more resilient to contamination than "premium" metals such as gold(which, by the way, practically doesnt exist in the world of hobby-electronics.. Theres gold-plattered metals though, which is something completely different). Final words: ITS A FKING ADAPTER!
  13. Lucif3r

    Henkaku Enso now available

    Fantastic. Glad I didnt bend over and buy a bigger overpriced piece of shit memcard now
  14. Lucif3r

    Henkaku Enso now available

    Speaking of the SD-card thingy... What can you actually do with it? Can you use it as a normal memcard and install games and shit on it, or is it purely for homebrew stuff such as emulators etc?